“All happiness depends on a leisurely breakfast.” – John Gunther

Breakfast, it’s the most important meal of the day. That oh-so-magical first meal that drags you from the edge of sleep to awake and ready to face the perils of a new day. Breakfast food runs the culinary gambit from a simple piece of fruit to a full on five course Sunday brunch. Classic breakfast items such as pancakes, eggs, or bacon are simple a straight forward to prepare but to elevate these items to gourmet levels takes an almost mythic culinary aptitude. Breakfast, though encompassing some of the most decadent and delicious dishes, seems often overlooked and underappreciated as well. It seems many of us are either to tired, to busy, or too asleep to fully take advantage of this essential yet amazing meal. For me, breakfast has always been a bit overlooked. I choose to make my living serving drinks from behind a bar which translates into late nights and a lot of sleeping late. There is always the option of a breakfast-like meal at the all night grease shack, but to achieve true breakfast nirvana you have to see a specialist. A visit must be paid to one of the enigmas of the restaurant world, the breakfast café. Almost everyone has at least one of these small, mom-and-pop establishments near them. It’s where the old-timers go to chat or read the newspaper over a couple cups of coffee. You won’t find a reservation book or a white table cloth here. No fancy decorations or 10 page wine lists either. What you will find at these special a.m. sanctuaries is one thing and one thing only: Good, freshly prepared, home cooked food. The island of Maui is no exception to the rule of the morning meeting place offering a few options for sunrise dining but none is better, or open earlier, than Kihei Caffe (yes that is the correct spelling).

Kihei Caffe is a true island institution. Opened over 25 years ago, Kihei Caffe began life as the Suc-Em-Up lounge, a lone bar in a remote, then undeveloped part of the valley isle. Over the past quarter century the lounge has seen some changes, growing along with the town of Kihei into is current configuration as a haven for those in search of a unique breakfast experience. Barry Allison is the Caffe’s latest proprietor and has been so for the past eight years. He has made relatively few changes to the restaurant over the past 8 years, seeing no need to mess with a good thing. The staff of Kihei Caffe, including the chef Rellijo and Laurel, the warm and friendly front counter attendant, feel more like family than restaurant workers and provide a warm, inviting atmosphere that is essential for an early morning establishment. The Caffe’s interior is bright and cheerful bathed in a warm orange glow and adorned with a few pieces of original art work. The menu boards are penned in neon chalk and cover the entire back wall behind the counter as well as bordering the counter on one side. No less than 17 breakfast plates are offered encompassing everything from local dishes to classic omelets to Mexicali favorites. Ordering is done cafeteria style at the main counter while all seating is outdoors on the partially covered patio.

The food at Kihei Caffe is classic home cooking to a T. The portions are ample and yet so unbelievably delicious you may think of taking a second order to go. When asking some of my foodie friends for suggestions on what to order on my first visit the answers were almost too numerous.

“You have to try the banana macadamia nut french toast and the biscuits and gravy”, said one friend.

“Their loco moco is a must try, and the pork fried is great too. Oh, don’t forget to try their bacon”, exclaimed another.

The more people I asked the more difficult my decision on what to order was becoming. Upon arriving, I did what I normally do and put my food fate in the hands of Laurel the matronly figure behind the counter, and let me tell you, I was not disappointed. The order she compiled consisted of some of the Caffe’s most popular items including biscuits and gravy, pork fried rice, thick cut bacon, and the piece de resistance: Portuguese sweet bread banana macadamia nut French toast with coconut syrup. Every item that was delivered to the table was visually appealing and chocked full of flavor. The biscuits were fluffy, the gravy smooth and creamy studded with small pieces of sausage. The pork fried was loaded with ham, bacon, and Portuguese sausage as well as peppers and onions and was so good I almost wanted to lick the plate. The infamous thick cut bacon also lived up to its tasty reputation, but the real star of the show was the French toast. Made from Portugese sweet bread then covered in a liberal dose of fresh local bananas and macadamia nuts, this breakfast creation is not only one of the best dishes I’ve had since arriving on Maui, it is truly one of the best things I’ve eaten, period. Add a little sweet cream butter and slather on some of the milky white coconut syrup and you have a dish worthy of any five star brunch.

So, if you find yourself up early (or still up from the night before) and craving a heaping helping of homemade goodness, stop by Kihei Caffe in Kalama village for breakfast the way it ought to be. The Caffe is open from 5 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily, but be sure and get there early because seats go fast. The Caffe also offers up great coffee, espresso, and fresh pastries for those looking for a quick bite or cup of joe, and even a lunch menu for those who forget to set their alarm. Kihei Caffe is one of Maui’s real hidden gems and will hopefully be serving up morning magnificence for another 25 years to come.