MAUI - When searching for that next great article, I use every tool at my disposal to find those hidden gems that may be skipped over by the tourist guide books. Sometimes it’s a review in the local paper; other times its nothing more than a random afternoon trip to the beach. More often though, it’s good old fashion word of mouth that lights the way down the path to a great story. My 9 to 5 job as a bartender affords me the opportunity to talk with dozens of people on a daily basis, all of which have their own opinions on the newest restaurant or the best hidden beaches on the valley isle. In my recent day to day discussions with Maui’s visitors and inhabitants, one establishment’s name kept popping up: Star Noodle. At first I was suspicious of a restaurant with such a franchise-like name. After all, I don’t write articles on chain establishments, and if this was just another Panda Express type place I would pass. But this name just kept coming up on the “you gotta try this place” list, so I decided to talk to some of my friends in the “biz” and see if it would indeed be worth my while. After speaking with my general manager (who happened to be good friends with Star Noodle’s head chef), I was assured that this place was the real deal and I was put in touch with Chef Sheldon Simeon. After a couple emails, I scheduled an afternoon meeting with Chef Simeon and headed to the town of Lahaina. It was time to see what all the fuss was about…

I was given a basic idea on the location of the restaurant but after driving around the general vicinity for 10 minutes with no success I decided to call for some directions. The woman on the phone was obviously used to patrons being unable to find the building and directed me to the location with ease. The building was new construction blending some Asian inspired architecture with clean modern lines and was set in an industrial park well off the main thoroughfare. Though the surrounding buildings were less than scenic, the parking lot and grounds of Star noodle were filled with plants and flowers giving the feel of an oasis in an industrial desert. The clean, modern Asian theme was carried through to the inside of the building with muted earth tones, high ceilings, and simple light fixtures. To the left, a long chocolate colored bar ran down the entire length of the space with an equally long, communal table running down the center of the room, parallel to the bar. Tables were set along the right side of the building and bordered the back wall as well. The owners of Star Noodle are veterans of the Maui food scene with restaurants like Ho’omana’o and Aloha Mixed Plate to their credit, and this experience was apparent in the design of Star Noodle. Chef Simeon described the vibe of Star Noodle as “A New York noodle house brought to Maui” and as far as the décor was concerned, I’d say that description was accurate.

Upon my arrival, I was promptly seated and introduced to Chef Simeon. We sat down and chatted for a moment before the camera came out and the interview began. After a 5 minute question and answer the “hard” part was over and I did as I always do, ask “so what’s good here”? Chef handed me a menu to look over but I put myself in the hands of the experts and a six course meal was ordered for me complete with TeaZu (iced tea and yuzu) and a tasting of 5 Gekkeikan Sakes. As the dishes began to arrive I started to realize that this meal would be quite different from that of your run-of-the-mill Pacific Rim eatery.

The first 2 offerings to arrive were the house made Garlic Noodles with Dashi and green onion and Singapore Noodles with chicken, shrimp, and fresh veggies (the Star’s most popular dish) followed closely by the third item, the fiddle fern and Maui onion Pohole Salad. Star Noodle focuses on the group aspect of the restaurant experience. This is reflected not only in the large communal table which is the main focal point of the dining room but also in the large portion sizes served. This was a place more suited to the “Tapas” style of dining, where many dishes are ordered and then shared with everyone, but I was flying solo on this excursion and as the food began to pile up I realized I may have bitten of more than I could chew (no pun intended). The next dish to arrive was the highly recommended pan roasted Brussels Sprouts (yes, Brussels Sprouts) with bacon and house made Kim Chee followed by one of the most visually appealing dishes I have ever been served, the bright yellow Vietnamese Crepe filled with a mixture of shrimp, pork, and bean sprouts in a coconut curry sauce served with a generous helping of fresh parsley, mint, and locally grown Butterleaf lettuce. The final dish to come to the table was one of my personal favorites, the soft, warm steamed pork buns with shitake mushrooms, cucumber and a streak of plum reduction. After a few pictures were taken and a little video was shot it was time to dig in…

Please believe me when I say that this was one of the top 10 best meals I have ever had, period. Every detail of the meal was attended to. All the ingredients used were as fresh as possible and everything that can be sourced locally was. Chef Simeon has done an amazing job with his use of fresh produce, layering flavors to creating complex dishes that are unique and yet very familiar. The mix of classic Pacific Rim tastes with local island flavors is a great match and is done to perfection. Along with Chef Simeon, my server Steve was extremely knowledgeable and helpful in the progression of my meal. His guidance helped me with everything from choosing the proper sake for each menu item to explaining some of the more unfamiliar ingredients in the dishes I was eating. This attention to detail was evident in every aspect of the dining experience and for those of us who are truly addicted to food, this is a godsend. To be able to ask questions and receive informed answers from well trained professionals about the food you’re eating is a marvelous concept and one usually reserved for places that are a bit out of my price range. The prices at Star Noodle, however, are some of the best on the island, serving up generous portions of out-of-this-world-food with a stellar atmosphere and service for the same price as a burger and fries.

In addition to their outstanding food and service, Star Noodle also works with other local restaurants organizing special dinners and events focusing on different aspects of the food culture. Recent events included a special Bacon Dinner and a beer tasting done with Maui Brewing Co. Star Noodle is open daily for lunch from 10:30am to 3:00pm and then reopens for dinner from 5:30pm to 10:00. Be sure to call ahead especially if you have a large group because space is limited and, despite the somewhat isolated location, the Star stays very busy. So, if you find yourself on Maui and in search of something a bit different than the usual status quo, Star Noodle may be what you’re looking for. Star Noodle brings together everything a true foodie needs under one roof. Chef Simeon and the crew at Star Noodle have created a truly great establishment that gets to the essence of what a restaurant should be: fresh food, big flavors, and a staff that is knowledgeable and really cares about the food being served. Cheers to Star Noodle for bringing some New York Sheik to the island of Maui. Mahalo!